Kashgar, ancient Silk Road trading hub

I arrived in Kashgar after a six hour minibus ride from an even more remote town in Xinjiang called Tashkurgan; the first town one encounters after crossing the border from northern Pakistan through the Khunjerab pass – the highest paved border crossing in the world.

Few places conjure up the myths and legends of the Silk Road quite like Kashgar. Located on the western edge of Xinjiang province, it is one of the iconic towns of Silk Road lore. The town was the gateway for Chinese traders heading for the markets of Central Asia and an essential stop-over for those travelling in the opposite direction. The legacy of this mercantile exchange is a strikingly diverse population. There are over 31 nationalities residing in the Kashgar area, including Uyghur, Hui, Tajik, Khalkhas, Uzbek, Kazak, Russ, Mongol, Manchu, Han and Tatar. The majority are Muslim.

Having dreamt for years about visiting Kashgar, it was a wonderful moment to finally reach it. The three days I spend there were amongst the most enjoyable I have spent anywhere. Much of the city is very walkable and the people were extremely welcoming. I took more portraits here than anywhere else I visited on my journey across Eurasia.

Whilst much of Kashgar’s old town has sadly been destroyed in recent years to make way for a new ‘old town’, the streets are still bustle. Traders, cooks, musicians, and a variety of artisans can be found all about the centre of town and at its famous bazaar.

I wish I could have seen the old city myself. I hope in some small way these photos capture some of the spirit of that place.

Leaving Tashkurgan, the first Chinese town after crossing the border from Pakistan, on route to Kashgar.
The road from Tashkurgan to Kashgar. These mountains are part of the Pamir mountain range.
The Pamir Mountain range in western China
Pit-stop on the road to Kashgar. Most of the inhabitants of western Xinjiang province part of an Turkic minority ethnic group originating from and culturally affiliated with the general region of Central and East Asia. This lady is wearing a traditional Tajik hat.
Unusual rock formations on the road to Kashgar
Kashgar’s new ‘old town’. Much of Kashgar’s original old town has been demolished in recent years and been replaced by an ‘old style’ new old town.
Three ladies hanging out on a street corner
A man wearing a traditional hat
A young woman
Kashgar’s new ‘old town’
A man in a traditional hat
A man in a traditional hat
A shop in Kashgar’s new ‘old town’
Kashgar’s new ‘old town’
A woman wearing a traditional Central Asian print dress
A shopkeeper
Items for sale
An antiques dealer from Pakistan (left) negotiating with a shopkeeper (right). I travelled with the antiques dealer from Sost in Pakistan. We sat together in the front seat of the mini-bus that took us from Sost in Pakistan to Tashkurgan in China. We bumped into each other by chance in Kashgar.
A man in a traditional hat
A man in a traditional hat
Kashgar’s new ‘old town’
A man making traditional Tajik bread
A man making traditional Tajik bread
Flavouring the bread with onions and various spices
Baking traditional Tajik bread
The Id Kah Mosque, the largest mosque in China. Every Friday, it houses nearly 10,000 worshippers and may accommodate up to 20,000.The mosque was built by Saqsiz Mirza in 1442 (although it incorporated older structures dating back to 996) and covers 16,800 square meters.
The Id Kah Mosque
A minaret from the Id Kah Mosque
A man playing a Dutar. The dutar is widely used at family gatherings and celebrations. ‘Dutar’ means ‘two strings’. It is a musical instrument played with the fingers.
Two young women wearing identical clothes – are they twins?
A blacksmith
Phone time
A young shopkeeper
Portrait of a young woman
A shopkeeper lady
A silhouette in Kashgar’s new ‘old town’
A silhouette in Kashgar’s new ‘old town’
A shopkeeper
Noodles for lunch
A young woman playing with a kitten
A street artist
His portrait of her
Pigeons fly circles around a minaret
An old man
Two shopkeepers in discussion
A shopkeeper
A metalsmith
A man selling wares at the bazaar
Kashgar’s Grand Bazaar
A shopkeeper at the bazaar
A man at the bazaar
Men at the bazaar
An old man in a traditional Kashgar hat at the bazaar
A cook making hand pulled noodles at the bazaar
A cook making hand pulled noodles at the bazaar
A cook serving Laghman at the bazaar. Laghman is a Central Asian dish of pulled noodles, meat and vegetables.
A cook serving Laghman at the bazaar. Laghman is a Central Asian dish of pulled noodles, meat and vegetables.
A barber at work in the bazaar
A barber at work in the bazaar
A shopkeeper at the bazaar
A shopkeeper at the bazaar
A barber giving face massage at the bazaar
A barber giving face massage at the bazaar
Preparing food at the bazaar
Preparing food at the bazaar
The Afāq Khoja Mausoleum. The mausoleum is one of the holiest Muslim sites in Kashgar.
You’re not wrong.
Architectural details from the Afāq Khoja Mausoleum.
The train from Kashgar to Urumqi; an 18 hour journey along the northern rim of the Taklamakan desert.
Looking out on the Taklamakan desert, the view for 18 hours.

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